Sunday Independent 4th August 2002

Powersfield House offers that little bit extra, writes Lucinda O'Sullivan

THE East Cork/West Waterford region is an area that I have written about before, and which I like very much. It is relatively unspoiled and improving food-wise. The twisty coastal drive past rugged cliffs and briny sea between Tramore and Dungarvan is well worth doing instead of belting along the N25. Margaret Browne has done Trojan work putting Killeagh on the map with her Ballymakeigh House and Browne's Restaurant where we recently had a lovely summery lunch.

In Ballycotton you have the Bayview Hotel, and Spanish Point Guesthouse and Restaurant. There is also a new addition, Grapefruit Moon, owned by Ivan Whelan and Isaac Allen (Ballymaloe grandchildren), but unfortunately closed at lunchtime when I wheeled by. In Castlemartyr, you have Kathy Sheehy's Old Parochial House B&B and Colm Falvey's excellent Cross of Cloyne.

At Cappoquin, Paul Deevy cooks a storm in the beautiful serene Richmond House and close by, in fairytale Lismore, is fun spot Maddens Pub. Who, of course, can overlook Paul Flynn who ploughed a lonely furrow when he first introduced a new level of dining to Dungarvan with his wonderful Tannery Restaurant?

Powersfield House in Dungarvan is the latest addition to this culinary bunch. Eunice Power who, having spent some time in London where she was involved in the setting up and running of a couple of restaurants, reckoned she "could do a bit better" and had something to offer the hospitality industry in her area. The house is a purpose-built family home cum guest house. It is neo-Georgian and located at the glamorous address of Ballinamuck West. It is one of the new breed of B&B guesthouses offering that little bit more in the way of good food, modern decor and innovative breakfasts.

Facing boldly out on a V-junction, it still looks pretty raw on the exterior and the garden needs a visit from the Ground Force team but no doubt they will sort it in time. To the rear, however, there are fields galore (husband is a farmer) and we were entranced with the millions of bunnies hopping around though I don't know how entranced the owners are by them as they munch their crops! Bunny stew or terrine aux lapins sprung to mind.

Our twin room (€90) was compact, but thoughtfully and cleverly put together with well-chosen old pieces mixed with new. It was painted duckegg blue there is probably a smarter designer decorator name with toning striped curtains, great big feature headboards upholstered in a large purple check fabric. There was also fresh sweet pea, a purple orchid and purple candle, little knick-knacks and, very importantly, two bottles of mineral water. The shower-room was impeccable and how lovely it was to be brought a big glass of fresh orange juice on arrival after a long drive.

Eunice also kindly arranged for my companion to have the use of a local leisure centre.

We came down to the small drawingroom, all cream checks, brown paintings, lovely toile curtains, which serves as an ante-room to the informal little restaurant cum breakfast room, in which she serves dinner on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Dinner, at ?36 a head, offered four starters: Caesar salad with anchovies and tapenade toast; spinach and rosemary soup; penne with tomato and chorizo cream; or Vietnamese chicken with pickled cucumber. Penne was a big bowl of perfectly al dente pasta enveloped in a rich spicy chorizo creamy sauce absolutely delicious and it was not at all wimpy with its generous pieces of the addictive sausage.

Vietnamese chicken was a more delicate creation of smooth creamy chicken sitting on a bed of Swedish-style sweet and sour pickled cucumber a favourite too of Ballymaloe graduates. Perhaps it was a tad delicately drizzled with chilli oil for me as I, notwithstanding the slice of lime, would have liked a sharper contrast, but that is purely a personal taste and it was very pleasant, "clean" and fresh-tasting.

Main courses were glazed pork steak with roast red peppers, goat's cheese, spinach and tomato coulis; monkfish and salmon were poached in a Thai broth with jasmine rice. Having had fish the night before, I plumped for a wonderful juicy fillet steak topped with caramelized onions on a champ base with a red wine jus. It was really very good. The beef and lamb were accredited to Michael McGrath, butchers of Lismore, so it was fully traceable.

Breast of chicken was stuffed with Clonakilty black pudding and served with a Crinnaughton apple juice and grainy mustard sauce and was excellent too. Vegetables were a joy: crisp green beans, yellow and green courgettes and refilled creamed baked potatoes instead of the usual tricolour carrots, cauli and broccoli.

Homemade strawberry ice-cream with strawberry shortcake was the choice of my companion. The scrumptious ice-cream, layered with glorious shortcake, disappeared rapidly. I had a selection of perfect Irish farmhouse cheeses served with homemade oatcakes followed by coffee and more homemade biscuits. There weren't any half bottles of wine but, our pleasant waitress enquired and, they were happy to open a bottle of Gracia de Chile Merlot Reserva 2000 and let me drink half (€13).

However, a few half bottles on the list wouldn't go astray for people travelling on their own for instance, business types.

We slept like logs and came down to an innovative breakfast. Fresh juices, were followed by lovely rhubarb mixed with oatmeal or prune and apricot compote and yogurt. Traditional breakfast was available but goat's cheese on a crouton with roasted peppers was much more enticing and delicious. There was also a great selection of brown and fruit scones, and brown breads. It was really healthy fare. With two Cokes (€3.60) and optional service our total bill came to €198.60.